Saturday 18 March 2023

Checking out Spain

 My main reason for going to Spain this week was to get a feel for how my trans life might pan out if I were to move there. Spain is probably the most LGBT-friendly place in Europe. 

I have been living in Italy these last four years, which is a country that recognises trans rights, has strong protections for those transitioning, has been improving the lives of trans youth, and has a long history of queer and trans culture going back centuries, such as the femminielli of Naples and the trans women of Genoa. Yet there's something here that doesn't quite embrace trans people and I don't feel quite at ease. So now that I have restored my European citizenship that enables me to live anywhere in the European Union, and now that my gender dysphoria is very strong, I'm looking to see if I can improve my position.

I last went to Barcelona with friends in 2001 and found it fun and interesting. This time it had a very different feel. That's partly because my motives for travel were not purely tourism but also because the main attractions have become outrageously expensive. For a part of the world that was always renowned for being very left-wing, the local council seems to have embraced capitalism in a big way! But I ask you, €39 (that's $42 or £35) just to see a house interior (Casa Battlò) or similar money to see one apartment in a block of flats (La Pedrera)! That's insane! They're not even museums, just homes! You can see the exteriors for free from the street. So I avoided the tourist traps and saw some delightful things for little or no money instead, such as the labyrinth garden and the chocolate museum. Even this early in the year, though, the town was swarming with tourists. However, in compensation, public transport is clean, cheap and efficient; the food is varied and edible and not usually expensive; property and rent is less than many places; the locals are reasonably friendly (although having two local languages creates unhelpful barriers, in my view). There is a problem with drought at the moment, even by Spanish standards, and local politics can still be inflammatory (they tried to secede from Spain in 2017). So, all things to consider if living in that region, not just visiting.

As for LGBT life, Barcelona doesn't seem to need a particular gay quarter or trans clubs since being out as LGBT attracts no particular notice. However, I did take a train trip to Sitges, a seaside resort about 30 miles down the coast, which is renowned for its LGBT culture. A pleasant, pretty place with winding streets full of attractive little shops that reminded me somewhat of the Lanes of Brighton.




There's certainly a more obvious LGBT presence here with rainbow flags at windows, a drag club in the middle of town, a very gay carnival parade in February/March, even a dedicated LGBT lifestyle store ...


The waitress where I had lunch did warn me that the place is not always sleepy like it is in March but in summer gets very crowded.

So, altogether I gathered a lot of information about life in that corner of Spain.

My next post will be more about the pretty things I saw, which is what a trip abroad is really about, right?

Sue x

6 comments:

  1. Those prices do seem somewhat steep. I know there's a Cost of Living issue, but that does seem to be taking the Mick.

    Moving somewhere that's more pro LGBTQ+ sounds a good idea. To be able to go about your business without any hassle, I think that's worth a lot.

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    1. Thanks, Lynn. Being able to go back to living my trans life as I used to 10-12 years ago would be priceless.
      I can't account for the astonishing prices. My guidebook dated from 2018 and the prices listed were half of what they are now. 100% inflation in 5 years is not what's happened in the rest of the economy so I can only put it down to greed.
      Sue x

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  2. Dear Sue, Thank for your report on Barcelona. I have been there several times over the last 40 year and have seen quite some change in the city, some for the better, some for the worse. Have you considered Amsterdam as a place to live? We love this city, we visit regularly, and it surely is very liberal and LGBTQ+-friendly. Franzi

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    1. Thanks for your comment, Franzi, and for your suggestion. Amsterdam is a great place for LGBT+ people, there's no doubt about that, but I moved to the Mediterranean because I must live somewhere warm and sunny for my health. North European weather was literally killing me. Sue x

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  3. It looks like a lovely place. You mentioned it has two local languages, I assume you are pretty good at learning them having lived in Italy ?

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    1. Thanks, Isobel. More photos in my next post. In Catalonia, the region around Barcelona, they speak both Catalan, which is a fully-fledged language which I find easy enough to follow since I use Italian every day, and Spanish, which is not so easy as it inherited a lot of words from previous German and Arabic rulers. Fortunately, everyone speaks International Tourist English too. Sue x

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