I'm back home now after a trip to Britain via France. The highlight was a weekend with Roz who lives in the Scottish Highlands. Two years ago (Movements: Scotland, part 1) we did a monster tour of Loch Ness and surrounding valleys, and visited places connected with the 17th-Century civil wars and 18th-Century Jacobite rebellions.
This time I wanted to tick some items off my bucket list and visit the North Coast. It’s renowned for its wind and unpredictable weather so I selected a long skirt, a thick coat and good boots (well, I thought they were good …)
On the way, we passed places we'd seen last time: Tain, Dornoch, Loch Fleet, Dunrobin Castle (Movements: Scotland, conclusion). This time we carried on all the way to the town of Wick where the world’s shortest street is to be found. Ebenezer Place seems to be just a sign on a road junction! But if it’s official, then I guess I really was there.
The only address in Ebenezer Place is the No 1 Bistro behind me and we decided that was a good place to have lunch. My beef casserole was not bad and the gooey brownie was memorable.
Then off to Duncansby Head where the East Coast turns the corner and becomes the North Coast. There lies the small settlement of John O’Groats that I have been meaning to visit for 40 years, ever since I went to Land’s End at the very opposite, i.e. south-western, end of the island of Great Britain. The idea is that you’re supposed to walk or drive or cycle or pogo-stick from one to the other but I’ve kind of overlooked the middle bit. Anyway, that omission aside, I still wanted to go to John O'Groats where the island also ends.
Strangely, my boots gave out here, by which I mean one heel block came off. This is odd as they're decent leather one that I’ve had without trouble for 30 years and even wore them out this spring (Girls day out in London). But I come prepared and carry emergency shoes in my handbag.
John O’Groats may be the north-eastermost settlement in Britain but it’s not the northernmost point, which is nearby Dunnet Head. The beautiful Orkney Islands a few miles offshore, where I stayed with Roz ten years ago (Andro in Orkney), were clearly visible, separated by the treacherous waters of the Pentland Firth with their tidal races, whirlpools, rocks and other hazards. I don't know if the whitecaps you can clearly see towards the right of this photo are the Merry Men of Mey, or the Swelkie. I think the former, Roz the latter. The Swelkie is the whirlpool of Norse legend that was said to be the grindstone that ground all the salt of the ocean.
The view of the cliffs of the island of Hoy glowing in the afternoon sunlight was beautiful.
Luggy the Crab who accompanies me these days to approve and promote LGBT culture, obviously enjoyed his day by the sea and the company of two transwomen living their best lives out in public.
Below, Luggy with the Dunnet Head lighthouse and the beautiful island of Hoy in the Orkneys behind. If you enlarge Luggy's photo below by clicking on it and look very closely towards the far left end of the island, you will see a little spike rising higher than the rest of the cliff. This is the famous Old Man of Hoy, a huge detached sea stack.
We went on to the town of Thurso which has Britain’s northernmost railway station. Even so, it’s not far north enough because if you live all the way out in the Shetland Islands your nearest station is in Norway!
Nearby is Dounreay, which was one of the first civil and military nuclear development sites, from the 1950s. It is now decommissioned and being dismantled … in ways that the visitor guide boards didn’t reassure us. Basically, they are learning how to dispose of tons of hazardous waste on the job!
What, me worry?
Radiant!
Enriched by a new-found glow, we drove home back down the beautiful east coast road.
A long day but very memorable. And I got to fulfil several lifelong wishes. And it's always a joy to be out as a woman.
Pity about the boots (you can see my spare ballet flats above) but we fixed the heel block with glue once home and they should hold for a bit. But I'd best get a cobbler to deal with them properly. Believe it or not, there were more issues with boots before the weekend was out ... but that tale will wait till next time.
Sue x
