I left my post about the exploding bra up for a week as it seemed to gather more than usual interest! I guess if it gave people a laugh then the bra may not have died in vain. One consequence of my post is that the Almighty Algorithm that knows and sees all things has been plying me with adverts for enhancer bras all week.
Anyway, enough of that silliness. I wanted to tell you about the exhibition I saw in London last week of the photos taken in the port of Genoa, Italy, in the 1960s by Lisetta Carmi.
As well as dockers and steelworkers, she photographed the lives of girls in the trans community there, ingratiating herself with a normally cautious group of people and recording their existence without judgment or comment. Carmi was well aware of prejudice and hate: as a Jewish girl of 14, she had fled to Switzerland in 1938 when Mussolini decided that some Hitler-style anti-Jewish legislation was what was needed. Given that crossdressing was illegal in Italy from 1931 to 1981, you can understand the community's reticence to be documented.
I have mentioned her photography before here. But this time I got to see it for myself at the Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art in Islington in North London, a rather nice little museum with a lovely café where they serve Italian food for lunch. I went with my trans-supportive friend Daniela who visited me in Italy recently (see Encouragement) and we were impressed with the amazing photos that documented both people at work and trans girls so clearly and honestly. Some girls are posing in their finery; some are just sitting, indoors or out; some girls are out on the town or at parties; others are soliciting; still others are just musing. What statement fashions they had in the '60s, though!
Some of Carmi's thoughts on the trans community:
I immediately understood that these were human beings who experienced, and suffered deeply from, the contradictions of our society, a minority that was both sought out and rejected.
By observing them, I understood how all that is masculine may also be feminine, and vice versa. There are no obligatory behavioural models outside those of an authoritarian tradition that is imposed on us from childhood.
Her conclusion: we are all human and all merit dignity.
To see some of the photos and read more about them, here are some links.
Here's the link to the gallery's page: Lisetta Carmi at the Estorick.
Here's a review of this exhibition in the UK's daily Guardian newspaper: Lisetta Carmi Identities review.
There are many reviews online of this important exhibition. In my opinion, the best is this one by Anna McNay in Studio International, again with photos and also touching on Carmi's own gender uncertainties: Lisetta Carmi: Identities
And here's another link to the 2019 article from Frieze Masters issue 8 that I included in my post three years ago and that has some photos that didn't feature in this exhibition: The Intimate Lives of Genoa's 1960s Trans Comunity.
I bought the catalogue with all the photos in as I'd like to keep a souvenir.
They also have select postcards:
The exhibition is on at the Estorick until December 17th. It's easy to get to as it's very close to Highbury and Islington Underground station.
I'll end with this meme that someone posted on Facebook which I feel encapsulates every image of a trans person I have ever come across: no matter the era or the fashion or the culture, we have always been here.
Sue x